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Thread: Mopar Robs 26 Dodge Brother Coupe

  1. #81
    Road Devil's Member Rob Caldwell's Avatar
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    Got the crank back from Dave and very happy with the finished product. This guy is legit, the crank pins were corrected and indexed for a perfect 3.000Ē stroke, all of the journals were within 0.0003 variance! Thatís impressive!

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  5. #85
    Road Devil's Member Rob Caldwell's Avatar
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  6. #86
    Road Devil's Member Rob Caldwell's Avatar
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    Running into a problem assembling the rotating assembly. Wanted to run this by all of you and see if anyone has had an issue like this before.

    Ive assembled dozens of engines and never had this happen yet.

    The problem is the crank locks up and will not rotate by hand when all the main caps are torqued down. I located the problem... its the no 3 main cap/ thrust bearing.

    With all the other caps (1/ 2/ 4/ 5) torqued to 100ft lbs and side bolts to 30ft lbs the crank spins perfectly with no problems but when I tighten up the no3 it locks the crank down and cant turn by hand.

    I mic’ed all the bores and they were good, mic’ed all the bores with bearings and they were good also(average was 2.4920), mic’ed the crank its at 2.4892 (0.010 under with a little extra for coated bearings), came out to average 0.0028 oil clearance on all mains (its mean of OEM 0.0015 to 0.0040). The thrust bearing/ crank end play comes in at 0.009 (OEM is 0.006 to 0.015)

    Ive checked the bearings tangs, thrust surface with dye for contact pattern/wear, bearing to cap/block fitment, cap/ block chamfer, bearing crush/ parting line fitment and cant find anything! The only thing I haven’t checked is for out of roundness but the mains were just line bored so they should be good. Hell I even ordered a new set of King HP bearings and same problem as the Federal Moguls I had in there the first time.

    The only place i can find anything is at the 12 and 6 o clock positions on the bearings where there is some light scuffing from the crank which makes me think there is an out of round condition for the bore but it mics the same when i checked it in several spots indexing about 30 - 40ish degrees.

    So what do you fellow engine builders think? I called Roger Stanke in MN and left a message and waiting for a call back, I’m going to try and get ahold of Nick Smithberg and see if he can help, he was referred to me from one of the SFCC ‘s Tony Turner who runs the ‘Quick and Dirty” 39 Dodge gasser with a 392. May even try to contact Gene Adams.

    I’m truly stumped on this one and I’ve had the crank in and out of the block at least two dozen times with no luck.

    Ill try and post a pic of the bearing up close.

  7. #87
    Road Devil's Member Rob Caldwell's Avatar
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    Got the valve train all set up. Welded up a set of 4340 ribs on the exhaust rocker arms the Tom Waters sent me. Wife don’t know it yet but i used to oven to preheat the steel arms to 300 deg, tacked the arms on and back in the oven to soak and finished with TIG and 1/8 rod.

    Rebuilt the 833 and got it in like new condition and back in the coupe. Never built a 4 speed before but they are stupid simple and WAY easier than a automatic!

  8. #88
    Road Devil's Member Rob Caldwell's Avatar
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    Did the 471 and got it all back together too, triple pined the rotors, coated the main case and end plates with graphite and set up for gas using parts from Rick Dean.

    Wasnít to bad to setup and clearance, got an even 0.004 on the ends and 0.007 rotor clearance with one shim 0.002 on the upper rotor.

  9. #89
    Road Devil's Member rabbit's Avatar
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    Seems to me the crank can only be a few things. Crank is not straight not likely but possible . Journal is out of round. Main cap out of round. Please post the answer when you find it. Very interested in your results. Johns 235 straight 6 is doing the same thing but it was tracked down to the rear main getting into a bind.

  10. #90
    Road Devil's Member Rob Caldwell's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rabbit View Post
    Seems to me the crank can only be a few things. Crank is not straight not likely but possible . Journal is out of round. Main cap out of round. Please post the answer when you find it. Very interested in your results. Johns 235 straight 6 is doing the same thing but it was tracked down to the rear main getting into a bind.
    Well I think I've got the crank problem situated. I took the block back and had the shop redo the line bore. What was happening was when they cut the center three aluminum caps & line bored it was creating enough heat to ever so slightly cause the caps to sweel when the finish bore was being cut. After the caps cooled they would shrink 0.0005 vertically and that was causing the crank to lock up.... at least that's what they said when I picked it up. Not sure why it was only the no3 and not the 2 &4 also, either way it's correct now.

    I don't have a dial bore gauge so I couldn't easily see the half thou out of round condition, I measured with a Intra-mic (three sided ID mic). Now I've learned from this that I need one.

    Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

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